Mountain refuges are quite crowded during the summer.

It was 3am and we were on our way to the base of Europe’s and possibly the world’s most iconic mountain: the Matterhorn. It costs £98 b&b. Rushing up the mountain can result in altitude sickness as the body struggles to cope with the lowered level of oxygen above 3,300 meters. Photo: Shutterstock / Stoyanh. The area is heaven for alpine flower enthusiasts. Below is a list of the recommended personal gear for ascending Matterhorn. Even in relatively stable conditions the summit can be shrouded in cloud as moist air rises from the Italian plains up the Aosta Valley. For safety reasons, it can only be climbed during fall and spring. to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and The Matterhorn, Monte Cervino (in Italian) or Mont Cervin (in French) lies between the town of Zermatt in Switzerland and Breuil-Cervinia in the Italian Aosta Valley to the south. mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. Going on to the summit ridge without modern crampons and with only hemp ropes would be regarded as the height of folly by today’s climbers. Make sure you have put in the groundwork by going on long runs/hikes/scrambles. Sadly, no shortcuts exist and this isn’t a challenge which can be achieved by following a closely-defined checklist, but that’s the ultimate attraction – the Matterhorn is definitely no ‘quick tick’. Thanks to its shape and its freestanding position, Matterhorn is considered to be the epitome of a mountain. This trail is called the Path to Freedom and is Europe’s highest hiking trail, allowing dramatic views of the Matterhorn and the other 4,000m peaks. Paul Hart is a former Royal Navy lieutenant commander. The guidebook time is 4-5 hours in ascent and 5-6 in descent. Below you will find a few itineraries as examples: The section of the Pennine Alps where Matterhorn is located comprises most of Western Europe’s highest mountains. It is a 9.3 km long walk with the superb views of the mountain lakes; Matterhorn is reflected in three of them.

Snowdonia, the Highlands and North West Highlands, and the Isle of Skye all offer fantastic scrambling terrain on which to practise. The peak offers challenging alpine and rock climbing routs. Unfortunately they were off route so put every one below them at risk from rock-fall. Check out the numerous Matterhorn ascent programs you can book through! Above the Solvay Hut. To sleep above 3,000m you can stay at the Gornergrat Kulm Hotel, which is at the top of the Gonergrat Railway.

It involves an overnight at the Bivacco Bossi hut (3,345m) and a 7-hour hike to the summit. Due to the huge vertical difference you need clothing to cope with a broad range of temperatures; most likely +30 degrees on the approach to the hut, followed by a pre-dawn start with temperatures just above freezing. The conditions were extremely poor and there was a lot of unseasonal snow on the mountain. The Leisee is good for swimming: children love it and Zermatt’s beach is on Leisee. Matterhorn is known under three common names. The Hörnli hut has capacity for 120 climbers and the Carrel hut for 45. It is slightly more difficult than both mentioned above, especially because it is often out of condition given its northern exposure. The other three routes are: - The South West/Italian Ridge (Lion Ridge) responsible for their own actions. For Whymper and the Tagwaulders, the elation of being the first to summit must have turned to a sickening horror at what happened and then to a fear for their own preservation given that they were still high on the mountain. The Alps cultural variety in general offers a great profusion of names, this is a mountain range stretching across linguistic and topographical borders, dividing nearby communities and giving birth to myths and dragons, devils and lost Roman legions. This is one occasion where ‘light is right’ or, more correctly, ‘light is right because you are going to be carrying it up and down 1,200m’.

Below you will find all the essential information for you to start planning your trip! At other times, we moved up one after the other using the fixed ropes that have been installed on particularly challenging parts of the route. IFMGA-certified guide Enrico proposes a 3-day trip departing from Zermatt with descent via the Hörnli ridge. So we had to put on our crampons, almost at the start of the climb. It does not need to compete with Zermatt. Hörnligrat Snow covered rock makes the route just too dangerous and slow going to attempt reasonably. There is a catch though... My rucksack should be small and light but with space for crampons, axe and additional layers as well as food and water. Photo: Shutterstock / Ekaterina Grivet. The classic route starts from the picture postcard Swiss alpine village of Zermatt and ascends the long and sustained (but not as steep as it looks!) Inevitably, this period also coincides with the high season in the Alps when the mountains are at their busiest, the conditions are often dry and the risk of rockfall is ever- present. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Walk up the night before to the Hörnlihutte – this is very busy though, so book well in advance. July and August are the only months sensible to try this route, as snow will still be lying before this. (2). If you are unconfident or your techniques are not refined you will be left for dust (and therefore ‘going against the flow’ as they all climb back down on top of you as they descend). Climbing the legendary Matterhorn is definitely a unique and memorable experience. From 10 July, many European destinations are opening up to UK travellers.

Matterhorn is probably the most photographed mountain in Europe. The author regularly guides on this route, see his website at There are four routes up the Matterhorn which are climbed relatively regularly. However, given its great height, its steep faces and its isolated location, Matterhorn is exposed to high winds (about 70km per hour) and rapid weather changes, often forcing climbers to postpone their plans. Many of these outings depart from Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia, as well as from other surrounding towns. It is of course possible to hire a Swiss Guide purely for a summit attempt in Zermatt, but the approach is slightly different with the vast majority of hopefuls having a rather clinical test on a nearby summit. And for me, climbing the Matterhorn stands as one of the most unforgettable moments of my mountaineering life. The Matterhorn Webcam is a useful tool if planning a visit; the mountain should really appear pretty much clear of snow when viewed from Zermatt to be considered in optimum condition. With the light beginning to improve we found ourselves climbing parallel with the other pairs and overtaking them on the final rock scramble to reach the Solvay Hut. You will invariably cause a traffic jam if you do try, knock rocks down and worse, get off route into dangerous, loose ground. The Omnia, a serene mountain hideaway, is perched on a wooded ledge high above central Zermatt. Photo: Alex Messenger. We brewed some sodium doused soup before pressing upwards. The slightly lower Italian summit at 4,476.4 m (14,686 ft) lies to the west. Whether you are a young alpine tiger or are starting your mountaineering career in your 40’s, the Matterhorn is almost sure to be on your ticklist. The common results are helicopter rescue, forced bivouacs and, unfortunately, death. So you want to climb the Matterhorn? Thanks to its shape and its freestanding position, Matterhorn is considered to … There are the odd spots (the Moseley Slabs and the Gebiss) which are abseiled but all other ground should be down climbed. If the selected program does not include preparation, you will need to book it separately. Read more », What's the best 4,000m peak in the Alps for beginners? When pushed it became apparent that he had never set foot on the mountain, let alone possessed an understanding of the enormity of the task. The picture shown … Having served with the Royal Marines and the Paratroopers and led expeditions in the world’s toughest environments, he has joined Telegraph Travel to bring more than 30 years of adventure experience to bear on everything from boots and backpacks to tents and technology. How to climb the Matterhorn . With lungs burning, hearts racing and legs aching we reached the ridge line leading out to the summit. The best accommodation in Zermatt, for a ski holiday in Switzerland's most iconic resort, From piste to pub to pillow: an insider ski holiday guide to Zermatt, The best restaurants in Zermatt, Switzerland, An expert guide to the slopes of Zermatt, Switzerland, The best hotels and chalets in Zermatt, Switzerland, From piste to pub to pillow: an insider ski holiday guide to St Moritz, Where to stay in Verbier for a ski holiday in Switzerland's chicest resort, What will ski holidays be like this winter? As a Guide, I personally think of the Matterhorn as a unique challenge, the overall itinerary being a much greater undertaking than its constituent parts. It was the last one to be ascended. Hornli Ridge: the route of the first ascent by Edward Whymper in 1865. Everything is super-scaled there, from mountains to egos and the party scene. Therefore, it is advisable to include a few extra days on your itinerary. I was told the following day that the other four climbers had been rescued from the mountain. The path leads past the lakes of the Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee and Leisee. Once in Zermatt make your way to the Hörnli Hut via the Matterhorn Express, Schwarzsee lift – it's a two-hour walk. But the last stage is very steep and totally exposed, with huge drops on either side. The previous record of three hours was set in 1953 by guide Alfons Lerjen and Hermann Biner, a 15-year-old Zermatt boy. As daylight broke we stood and looked down at what we had climbed. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists Our first real problem wasn’t snow, though. "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I.

HOW HARD: The Hörnli Ridge is graded AD, and you will ascend 1,220m from the Hörnlihutte. Moving together is simply that – both climbers move at the same time with a short-ish length of rope using intermediate runners and short pitching where necessary.

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